It makes perfect sense why this country is called Ecuador. It took its name from the equator on which it sits (the official name of the country, Republic of Ecuador, translates to “Republic of the Equator”). The equator, of course, being the imaginary line that denotes the northern and southern hemispheres and thus marks the half way point to either pole. Fittingly enough, I’ll remember Ecuador as the place where about half of the things I attempt to do actually work out the way I’d expect. Too many little things to mention but it’s enough to drive you a little crazy.
This morning I finally broke down and cut my old frame in half and emailed Koga proof. I couldn’t even bring myself to make the first cut with the hacksaw; Santiago had to get it started for me. What a shame. 17,000 miles on that bike and I have to cut it in half after 2 years because the aluminum is corroding. Having to pay $250 in taxes because Koga valued the frame at $450 on the invoice plus having to pay a mechanic to have the bike rebuilt sucked but to Koga’s credit, the overall experience was made much easier by their exceptional customer service.
If I could go back in time I’m only 60% sure I would still choose a Koga touring bike for this trip. The simple fact is that I was not expecting to have visible and possible structural problems with the frame after 2 years. Even if I hadn’t had to deal with replacing the frame, and assuming the frame didn’t actually break (which I doubt it would have), I’d be pissed off every time I looked down and saw it rotting away on me.
Paid a visit to the dentist here in Tumbaco. Found a great place called Nova Dental (across from the Santa Maria next to the bus stop). Sadly, the tooth fairy wasn’t too happy with me for drinking all the Coca Cola in Mexico so I had to have some work done. Nothing crazy–no actual cavities but there were some “starter holes” that had to be patched up.
One of the cyclists staying here discovered that his steel frame bike had three cracks in it and was way too dangerous to ride under load. He’s on a bit of a budget so a few of us chipped in a bought him a new frame. Unfortunately I’ll probably be gone before it gets built so no pictures of the new bike. His hobby is hand making jewelry and as a thank you gift to us we got to pick out something to take along. I chose a cool dolphin necklace he carved out of a seed.
The visa situation has been a blast to deal with over the last couple days. Not too long ago the Ecuadorian government changed the visa requirements making it much harder to get in and making it even harder to stay beyond the 90 day limit everyone gets upon entry. I hear the Chinese can be thanked for the change. In June 2008, Ecuador announced that anyone from any country could visit Ecuador without a visa. The Chinese mafia got wind of this and Ecuador soon became a jumping off point for human smugglers moving Chinese citizens to the US via Mexico. By December 2008, nearly 12,000 Chinese had entered the country, a 600% increase over the first half of the year.
To get an extension now you have to apply in Quito at the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores (10 de Agosto y Carrion). You can’t just get a new stamp for another 30 days either; you have to apply for a new 12-IX visa which requires proof of sufficient funds ($1000), proof of onward travel and of course a nice fat fee: $230. Overstaying your visa by even a day results in a fine of $200 and you “might” be barred from reentering the county for 6 months. The immigration guy and other source high up in the immigration department said they are not enforcing the fines right now but that could just be a scam because I’ve read the fine when it’s enforced can be anywhere from $200 to $2000. It just doesn’t make sense that they would kill off that revenue stream.
My 90 days in Ecuador runs out on March 17th which means I’d have to pay the cash for the extension, hold off on Argentina for a bit and ride with Monika somewhere else (Brazil?) before eventually splitting up (her north; me south), stay longer and hope I don’t get fined or ride straight to Peru which should be possible if I don’t stop for too many rest days. The most sensible thing long term, and not at all my favorite for the short term, is just to keep heading south alone. So tomorrow I leave for Peru after enjoying 42 amazing days at the Casa de Ciclista in Tumbaco.
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