03/15 Back in the lowlands. Official altitude right now is 116 feet. The Pacific Ocean is less than 13 miles away. OK, officially its called the Gulfo de Guayaquil. Rode down from Cuenca along a quiet and very scenic highway. Had a bit of a scare this morning. A guy flagged me down about an hour after leaving and said the main road was impassable but there was a detour. Then he started to explain something else but I couldn’t understand him. After riding for another few minutes I get to the detour. The main road kept going and I couldn’t see any problems with it so I weaved around the signs and kept going. Just because a car can’t get through a washout doesn’t mean a bike can’t.
A bit further on the road was blocked off, this time with huge piles of dirt. Behind the dirt there was no sign of the road. Off to the right a windy trail lead way up into the hills. I guess this was the last detour. I tried to push my bike up it but it was just too steep. I gave up after 10 feet and started back down. Just when I was turning around a 4×4 truck crossed over the piles of dirt and drove down an embankment to where the road continued. What do you know–a way through.
I headed over and rode my bike down. Of course I slipped in the loose dirt and fell over like an idiot. My front pannier went tumbling down the hill while I sat in the dirt watching it. It just got dirty though–no damage. I was fine too. No one saw which is all that really matters. At the bottom I jumped on the bike and kept riding. Except for one spot 1/4 mile later, the road was passable and the rest of the way down from the mountains was uneventful.
Stayed in Santa Isabel last night although I didn’t actually see any of the town. You see, every village/town/city in Ecuador in preceded by a major climb up a hill. It doesn’t matter from which direction you ride–there’s always a hill. Santa Isabel was no different. To get into the centre you have to climb up a big hill for a half mile or so. Luck was on my side because there were a bunch of hostels at the turnoff from the highway. Met a Canadian couple who just bought some property in town.
Pasaje is hot. Bike computer showed 100 F. It’s not that bad though and it hasn’t rained since I left Quito so I won’t complain. No more hot showers. All the hotels here are cold water only although, after riding in the heat all day, jumping in a cool shower is pretty nice. A room with an AC cost $11.
My right knee is killing me. I’m really hoping its not too hilly tomorrow. This border crossing is going to be very interesting (in 2 days). The Ecuador immigration office is 4km from the actual border and the Peru one is 2km after the crossing. Not sure who came up with that idea.
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