04/17 It was almost the perfect day. The ride heading south out of Jaen was a bit discouraging at first because there was a pretty big hill that I wasn’t expecting. Going back north and cutting over through Bellavista would have been shorter but this way saved me a river crossing via boat (I think–waiting on confirmation). Things started looking up pretty fast though. The road descended for the longest time all the way down into a river canyon where it snaked along with the hills on one side and the river on the other. The road was in perfect shape too. Not sure how new it is but there was a shoulder the entire way and virtually no glass or nails– common items on most paved roadways. Even the weather was perfect. It was cloudy but it kept the temperature from getting too crazy. Not that many dogs chased me either which was kind of nice (maybe 6 or so).
The thing that ruined the day happened right outside Bagua Grande. 3 guys standing next to moto-taxis (surprise) watched me approach and then one of them, a greasy-looking fat guy in his thirties, spit on the ground when I went by. I spit too just for the hell of it. I’m not 100% sure it was intended for me because he didn’t say anything but it seemed a bit suspicious. If you have something to say can’t you just say it? Why leave any doubt? I hate cowards. It’s not even like he could see the machete– it was on the other side.
A billboard alerted me to the Rio Hotel and its list of amenities including wifi and AC. Sounded good to me. It was way past the central area of town down by the river. It’s more of a resort than a hotel and the price reflected it. 80 soles for a room (US $28). The only thing keeping me from feeling really bad about the price is that I know Karin and Marten have spent more for a room.
Actually, that’s not all. The restaurant is closed (even though the sign says open) which sucks because there’s nothing else around here. The wifi is also slow to the point of almost unusable.
The place is nice enough with a couple pools in the back but some drunk morons sitting at the next table kind of ruined my pool-side lounging.
Dear people Googling, “Is Jaen, Peru dangerous?” The answer is no. I walked around for hours and never felt unsafe. This walk included a couple bank stops for low-rate ATMs, a long stroll through the market and trips down side streets. It’s a bit dingy in spots thanks to a lot of road construction but otherwise it wasn’t any different than any other place I’ve been told is dangerous.
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Scott, it was great to meet you again in Pedro Ruiz, see you soon again
I love the picture of the old abandoned village…when are you coming home, I think we need some bonding time? Fat greasy men in their 30′s need love too.
still going!?… that’s awesome!…
i’m sitting here, merging branches for a ruby on rails gig i’ve got… the weather’s warming up, and the winter air no longer makes me feel like i have asthma, when i ride… and you popped into my head…
keep your eyes peeled for ayahuasca and yage… split your third eye with a jungle forged cleaver!…