05/10 It hasn’t happened just yet but Mexico is in danger of slipping to #2 on my favorite countries list. Both countries have impressive ruins, colonial cities and a rich cultures that have withstood Western influences. Peru gets you with the little things though.
The people living in the highlands just amaze me. They build their houses using materials available locally, they grow their own food and they have such a strong family/community bond. What they don’t grow, they get at the markets, which is full of other local products. All day I ride by women walking down the road tending sheep. It’s rare to see them not doing something, usually weaving/knitting something that, I assume, is destined to be sold at the market. The kids are sometimes shy but usually one of the braver ones will say good afternoon or even say hello in English. It’s just an incredible place and it’s a shame those assholes that tried to rob me on the coast ruined that part of Peru for me.
With all those nice things about Peru I do have to say that the high population has sure done a number on the land. Trees are rare although I did see a few artificial forests which is a good sign. This mountain outside of Huamachuco was just raped to death by miners. I’ve never seen anything like it. It was the ugliest looking thing I’ve even seen people do to something natural.
Anyway, the road was nice and paved until a few miles before town. Construction was underway to pave this section and the riding was rough. There were also a couple steep sections that took some extra pedaling to get up. Rode by a rare body of water, Laguna Sausacocha. I was kind of worried mercury from the mining might have messed up the water but I ordered the fish from a lakeside restaurant anyway (mercury is used to wash the rock in order to separate out the gold–not sure if they do that with silver since it’s the other big export). The bigger problem for me was when I went in the back where they prepare the food so I could pay for lunch. Some things are best left unseen. It’s a small miracle I haven’t had stomach problems in months.
Huamachuco is another good looking colonial town. The Plaza de Armas is said to be the biggest one in Peru. Staying at the Hostal San José for S35. Kind of pricey but it’s on the plaza. The shower is wickedly hot which suits me find because the town is over 10k feet high.
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