10/26 Yesterday sucked. Rode for all of 13 miles before a spoke broke. The wheel wasn’t too wobbly and after waiting for a taxi for an hour I decided to just ride the couple miles back to a small town I’d passed. It wasn’t too long before I found a bike shop and had the broken spoke replaced. The mechanic also went out and found me 10 spare spokes just in case. I’m no expert on spoke replacements having never done it but it looked easy enough provided none break on the side with the chain rings. Not sure why it broke. I slammed into 2 decent speedbumps going down a hill which probably didn’t help. All day I was paranoid they’d keep breaking.

Big climb today after the longest downhill. The views going up the mountain were pretty amazing thanks to mostly sunny skies. The temperature is much cooler but the sun is incredibly strong. Road conditions were OK. No shoulder but the lanes are wide. Truck traffic was non-stop. The worst is when they get in a convoy so five or six pass you all at once. The noise is incredible when that happens. I should try to take a video of it.

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04/06 Lost 10 more pounds today. That was just in sweat. The heat was bad but holy cow was it ever humid. For the first time maybe on this entire trip I had to stop and take a break just to avoid getting heat stroke. The climbs didn’t help either but talk about some amazing scenery along the top of the hills. Of course I ended up getting a flat tire which was made much worse by the lack of shade nearby.

Had some interesting people encounters today. While stopped just past a store to take a picture of a valley about half a dozen little kids came running over to ask for money. Once I said no most of them just stood there watching me while a couple of the alpha kids played with the things strapped to the rear bike bags. I packed my camera back up and started to ride away. I turned to wave and saw one of the boys looking like he was going to throw something at me. Sure enough the little brat threw a small rock and hit me in the back. It’s not like I could go back and beat his little ass so I just yelled “Hey!” and made like I was going to turn around. They just stood there like Children of the Corn so I left. I’m not entirely convinced that he wasn’t just playing but it’s hard to say.

Next up was an 8 year old highway robber. At one of the rare flat spots I saw a girl standing beside the road holding the end of a vine that stretched across the highway. As I got closer she pulled the vine so it was 3 feet off the road. I could have barreled right through I suppose but I had no idea who was sitting in the trees watching. I didn’t understand anything she said except 5 pesos so I gave it to her. She lowered the vine and off I went.

One encounter I didn’t have was along the access road to the cascades. The 2 mile road is a bit notorious for robberies and several bicyclists I know advoided coming down here because of it. I kept an eye out but it’s downhill the entire way and there was no way I was stopping for anyone. Made it here without seeing a single person and boy was it worth it.

The series of waterfalls and pools that make up the Cascades del la Agua Azul are beautiful. The first thing I did when I got here, after posing for some pictures, was get a cabana, change into my swimming shorts and jump in. The water was perfect and a lot colder than I thought it would be. I wish they had a set of waterfalls every 20 miles along the road.

This place is packed with Mexican families camping and enjoying the park. Lots of tents and people BBQ’ing. There might have been a couple hippies camping but I avoid them. I would have liked to have camped but I’m by myself and there are too many people around to leave my stuff unattended. Had a great dinner at one of the many restraunts before taking a nice walk up along the river.

Still a little sick. This cough won’t go away and I still have the sniffles. Maybe in the next town I’ll grab some medicine.

GPX Track

03/20 Moderate winds again today which made for some easy riding. I’ll be in the mountains and hopefully out of this 90 degree heat with 80% humidity. I was used to it in Florida but when I was riding there it was on a 25 lb mountain bike; not on a 150 lb touring bike.

Nothing crazy on the ride today. You can tell the tropics are getting close. Lots of green trees everywhere. Great roads for almost the entire day. Wide shoulders are so much better to ride on. People have been very friendly for the last few days. Lots and lots of waves from people passing by. For the first time a police truck gave me a honk. That was kind of cool.

A little after I got here there was a knock on my door. Pete, a bicycle tourist riding from San Diego to Bolivia, heard from the front desk lady I was here. We’re heading the same way but I kind of want to hang out tomorrow and relax. Not 100% if I’ll do that. It’s hard leaving a room with an AC, Internet, cable TV and a place to buy beer next door.

GPX Track

02/24 Back in my tent for the first time in a long time. I missed it. Had it not been for the (Spanish speaking) bicycle tourists I met here at the ruins I’d be in a motel. After a pretty decent climb to the site here at Xochicalo I pulled up the place where you buy tickets and saw 2 fully loaded touring bikes leaning against the wall. Mazatlan was the last time I saw another touring rider so I was kind of excited. I paid the $51 pesos to get in and went to check out the ruins and see if I could find the bike riders.

I spotted them after a couple minutes. They are Marten and Karin from the Netherlands. They are on their way from Alaska to Bolivia. I knew they’d been in Alaska because they have a big old thing of bear spray attached to one of their bikes. They had already gotten an OK to camp up here right next to the museum so I went off to explore the ruins since they’d be here for the night.

What an amazing place. Basically the entire top of the (huge) hill was leveled and a city built on top of it. The area where the ruins are is much larger than I thought it would be. I grabbed some pics and then headed back to the museum.

I didn’t want to impose so I was going to head back downhill to a motel but Marten/Karin were cool with me camping up here too so I stayed. The people that run the site let us pitch our tents in the parking lot on a grassy section so that’s where we are–camped next to some old Mayan ruins.

GPX Track

Took advantage of a beautiful, sunny day and rode in the Via RecreActiva in Guadalajara. Via RecreActiva is a weekly 6 hour event where they clear the cars from certain streets and only pedestrians and bicyclists are allowed on them. About 150,000 people then get to ride along about 15 miles of roadway completely free of cars through the 2nd largest city in Mexico. The whole thing was amazingly well-organized. Cross streets all had either volunteers or police to manage cars wanting to cross the route and every mile or so there were repair stations for people that had flats or other bike issues. It’s a shame more cities don’t promote events like this.

The plan was for me to ride my bike to Guadalajara and meet up with Beata, Diana and Isaac at the place that loans bicycles to people. Unfortunately by the time they got to the bike place there were no more bikes left. We just ended up just walking along the sidewalk checking out all the bikes and people. After a couple miles we made it to a mall at which point Isaac went home and the girls went shopping. I jumped on my bike and rode along with the other cyclists. I ended up riding about 14 miles through the city until hunger set in and it was time to head home.