Finding a place to camp tonight was a pain. 99% of the time I was going up or down a steep canyon road that had nothing as far as a reasonably flat and secluded place to toss up my tent. The other thing that made it difficult is the number of people living in places that I wouldn’t have guessed anyone lived. The first place I found looked like an old trail that led down to a creek. I wasn’t there 20 minutes before a guy comes walking out of who knows where with a slingshot and a backpack. He didn’t seem to care that I was putting my tent up but he made it sound like the trail was a little more used than I thought. Even though I was pretty beat I packed up and kept climbing up the hill. I lucked out. Not 1/4 mile up the road I found another trail that goes back into the bushes about 50 feet. There’s even a little creek so I get to hear running water for the first time in a long time.

Speaking of wild, something dawned on me today. I haven’t seen a single wild animal since Baja. At least nothing bigger than a squirrel. I might have missed live things I guess but I’d at least see dead carcasses at the side of road. There hasn’t been a single thing. No deer, rabbits, coyotes, etc. It’s not hard to figure out why I suppose. Mexico is ranked among the five most heavily deforested countries in the world. No trees = no shelter = no animals.

Some stupid punk teenage girl annoyed me. In the last town I was in there was a sign next to a building that said La Cabana. A cabana sounded lke a good place to crash for the night so I asked how much. The entire time I was trying to ask about the place the girl was laughing like I was doing a stand-up routine. The Dad(?) was saying something but he talked so fast I couldn’t understand him. Finally I got fed up and left. I realized later that maybe she was laughing because that was the name of the “restaurant”; not that there was actually a cabana there. This place was a covered shack with no walls–it wasn’t any different than any other place I’ve seen so who knows. I hope I see her somewhere where they only speak English so I can laugh at her. We’ll see how she likes it.

It’s hilly on this mountain highway but the views are incredible. Water hasn’t been too hard to find which is good because I’m going through a lot of it. The towns/villages are populated by Indians, and even though I read you’re not supposed to, I couldn’t resist taking a quick shot of 2 of the girls walking along the road. They were just so freaking cute. I don’t think they saw the camera anyway. There were about 20 kids in total that just got dropped off from school. The boys all stopped and stared but about 8 girls saw me and ran off the road and hid. It was kind of funny.

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After checking out many of the crowded, narrow streets, almost all of which were filled with vendors, I headed over to the cathedral and the National Palace. Wow. Both buildings were quite a sight. The Metropolitan Cathedral, the largest and oldest cathedral in the Americas, was just immense. It’s hard to imagine how a building dating back to 1573 could have been designed so perfectly. Recent history is putting the design of many of the older buildings to the test however. Neglect and damage resulting from the magnitude 8.1 earthquake that hit in 1985 resulted in damage to many of the buildings. According to some people, some of the older buildings are even in danger of collapse. The government has been dumping a lot of money into restoring the area so hopefully the changes will help.

A quick plate of tacos and I was off to my next destination–Teotihuacan, home of the 3rd largest pyramid in the world, the Pyramid of the Sun. I just found out tonight that the 2nd largest in the world, the Great Pyramid of Cholula, is close to my route so I’ll have to stop and visit that one too.

The 30 mile ride to get here was nuts. Mex-85 is an absolutely chaotic road. The problem are the buses, taxis and vans that compete for passengers standing at the side of the road. There are 4 travel lanes and no breakdown lane so the side of the road turns into a circus. In some spots there’ll be a dozen passenger vehicles jockeying for position. Riding in and out of this mess is a good test of ones riding ability. At one point I did get to ride on a toll road and fortunately the operator that literally came running toward me as I approached the toll booth just wanted to show me where to walk my bike past it.

The town closest to the ruins, Teotihuacan will be my home for 2 nights. I’ll take a taxi over in the morning and check it out.

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Weather in Mexico City when posted:

Temperature: 12 °C, Humidity: 62%, Wind Speed: 9km/hr, Cloud Cover: scattered clouds

I guess it’s not too bad. The motel room is like a normal room except for the mirrored headboard and full length mirror on the wall. There’s even room service available. Since it took me until 8pm to find a place I needed a beer (or 3). I opted to pay for a full night instead of the four, eight or twelve hour options they have available. There’s even a curtained off garage to park your car for some additional privacy. There’s no check-in desk either. You just pull up to a glass window that you can’t see into and conduct everything through (very loud) speakers and a slide out drawer like at a bank drive through. That made communication even harder for me because being able to see the person makes it a lot easier. There’s no hot water either which was the one thing I was hoping for more than anythig.

Mexico City sits smack dab in the middle of the 3rd largest metropolitan area in the world so you can imagine the traffic. I rode around for about 4 hours and it was like rush hour on every road. My GPS track tells the story I’m sure. And let me tell you about road conditions. The highway I rode into the city on (Mex-85) and virtually every other road was in the worst shape of anything I’ve seen in all of Mexico. There are massive potholes on every road, broken glass is very common, there are unmarked speedbumps everywhere, people park on the sidewalks or double-park, the sidewalks are in horrible shape and people drive like freaking maniacs.

The fact that I’m even alive is a miracle. I was used to people cruising through stop signs after a cursory slowdown but here they burn right through red lights. Lanes are almost meaningless. There’s also garbage all over the place which is also something I usually only see on the outskirts of towns.

I didn’t get to see the ruins at Teotihuacan and now the cab ride there is going to cost a fair bit since I had to ride so far. I’ll have to find a new motel (with intenet) and then try to go see it tomorrow or maybe Tuesday. What a pain. I can’t wait to get out of this city.

Update: I think I found part of my problem. For some reason I’d manually entered wrong coordinates for the ruins into my GPS. Oops. First time for everything I guess. I’m still about 35 miles away. I’ll head over tomorrow. I feel a little better at least now that I know where I’m going.

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The highway numbers were messing with me today. My map said I’d be on a toll road all day so I was all psyched up to sneak around toll booths. I ended up on a free highway (Mex-43) that was just fantastic. The road was in great condition and there was a huge shoulder. Couple little hils but nothing like a few days ago. I also had a strong tailwind from the SE all day. The wind is supposed to be even stronger over the next couple days so I’m glad I’m going north. All this made up for having to fix my front tire that I noticed was flat right when I was getting ready to leave. It gave me time to chat with one of the guys that works in the motel while I was fixing it so it worked out OK.

I think its time I started looking to replace my poor old front tire. Its not worn through enough to see the tube or anything but it has to be getting pretty thin. The Mr. Tuffy liner I have inside is probably the only thing keeping me from getting flats all day. Maybe I’ll hold out until Mexico City.

When I made it into Morelia I was surprised how big it was. Traffic was crazy. Riding wasn’t bad but I had to wait forever for cars to pass so I could take pictures of things. In the central plaza there were all these crazy looking people in costume tap dancing so I stopped and watched that for a while. After stopping for a beer I cruised around the historic area a bit but decided not to stay. Leaving was a little challenging. Someone had plastered stickers over the highway signs so I wasn’t sure what road I should be on. I ended up just heading north like my GPS said and it worked out.

The town I’m staying in is different from any other town I’ve been in. All the buildings along the main street are exactly the same and the name of the store is written in black letters on the building but there are no signs or anything. I rode right by the hotel. Had to stop and ask a cop for directions. When I was walking back that way to get some food I smelled pot for the first time in Mexico. A scruffy looking guy had lit one up in the plaza not 100 feet from the police officer who was directing traffic. Seemed very strange considering what I’d heard about drug enforcement down here.

When I came back to the hotel the door to my room was open a little. I would have locked it but the lady said they only had one key for it so she didn’t give me one. The main door is locked all the time so I wasn’t worried about it when I left. I’m the only one staying here too. There’s a little kid running around inside. Maybe she opened it. Nothing was missing.

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The weather wasn’t on my side either. The wind was strong and got stronger as I climbed up into the hills. It was also a little cold with the sky being mostly overcast. At the 20 mile mark I was about done. At mile 35 a trail leading up alongside a mountain looked like it could be home for the night but there wasn’t a good place to pitch the tent. Angahuan was only another 10 miles so I just kept going.

Passing through the small towns offered something new for me. Purepecha Indians live in the small, mountainside villages in this area and the differences between their culture and those of the Spanish population I’ve seen so far is striking. Women of all ages wear very colorful dresses and usually have their heads covered with a scarf. I haven’t seen any outright signs of poverty but the houses and condition of the streets makes it pretty clear that money is a lot harder to come by. Other than the main road running through the town most of the streets are either rough cobblestone or dirt.

In Angahuan I stopped at a visitor information center and asked if there was a motel in town. The answer was no but there was a place with cabanas. That worked so I asked for directions which I didn’t understand. The streets are all cobblestone so after a bumpy five minutes I was very surprised to see a hotel. The sign even said English speaking, internet and hot showers included. I pulled up to see how much it was and found out they wanted $31 US. Too rich for my blood. The sign was also misleading. No one spoke English and there was no internet. The English I normally don’t care about but it would have been nice to ask about getting a guide to visit the volcano. I’ll just wing it tomorrow.

Finding the cabanas was just dumb luck. I’d asked a few people where they were and the last guy pointed behind him– he was standing in front of them. There wasn’t a sign so I would have ridden right by considering the place didn’t look any different from any other building (it’s at N19 32.908 W102 13.661). It looks like there are two cabins. They are up on a hill so I have a nice view of the city. The door doesn’t lock but there’s a big stone fence surrounding the property so my stuff should be fine. The cabana is one of the best places I’ve stayed for the price. It was only $18 for 2 nights, there’s hot water, 2 beds, a table and a fireplace! I asked the lady about buying some firewood and when I came back she’d stacked a pile of it outside my door.

The big attraction here is the Paricutin volcano. In 1943 it erupted sending lava pouring down into the village of San Juan Parangaricutiro. Today only the church’s twin towers are visible. The lava completely covered everything else. My guide book says the church is accessible from town via foot or horseback but I’ll try hiking it tomorrow since my butt needs a rest.

Today must be a holiday because in the last town I rode through about ten teenagers were walking up the street in what looked like Halloween costumes. I was too tired to take a picture so I kept going. In Angahuan there’s a lot going on. The streets are filled with roving groups of musicians and street dancers. While eating some tacos at a street stand I asked the guy across from me, an English speaking drug dealer with silver front teeth, what the party was for. He made it sound like this happens here every weekend but I kind of doubt it.

Oh yeah… this morning as I was riding along the highway two guys in a pickup stopped ahead of me and when I got close and asked if they could get a picture. Kind of a funny thing to have happen. Also, when I was climbing up the mountain another pickup stopped and the guy driving asked if I wanted a lift to the top. It was tempting but I passed. Nice of him to stop and ask though.

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Tlaquepaque is a city right next to Guadalajara so it was a short ride today. The first thing I checked for when I woke up was the sun. It was out. So long rain. Guadalajara has lots of sights to see being the 2nd biggest city in Mexico (3 million people). Riding around wasn’t bad at all but I think it being Sunday had a lot to do with it. There were a lot of people walking around the central cathedral district. Can’t say I blame them because it turned out to be a beautiful day and there was so much to see and do.

Turns out I make a good tourist attraction too. 2 police officers on bicycles rode up to where I was taking a picture and started asking all kinds of questions about my gear. They were just curious though–it wasn’t a shakedown or anything. The racks drew the most questions. They didn’t have any and I bet they thought have bags mounted right on the bike was pretty sweet. While they were still standing there more and more people kept coming over to ask questions. Next thing you know there are 20 people standing around me in the plaza. It was pretty cool. The family in the picture below gave me their number and invited me to stay at their place in Mexico City if I get down that way.

Next stop was to track down my Mexican hosts for the next three weeks. It was only a 3 mile ride from Guadalajara so I took my time riding over. Off one of the side streets I saw a bicycle shop so I headed over. Ever since the rain day yesterday one of the gear shift cables has felt really tight. The dad runs the place with his wife/kids so he had them get my bike on a stand and bring him some tools. He spent the next 45 minutes cleaning the cables, the chain and the derailleurs like they’ve never been cleaned before. Then when I went to pay him he wouldn’t take any money! Wow. I’ll stop back over when I find something cool I can bring them.

Next stop was the plaza and market streets in Tlaquepaque. Took lots more pictures and then left. I’ll be spending a lot of time there because it’s only 2 blocks from where I’m staying. Met a gorgeous girl outside one of the stores. I think I’m keeping her.

I’m liking the Olympus camera. It tends to wash out parts of the picture if the lighting is bad but the Pentax did that too. The shutter lag and start up time, things some other people complained about, didn’t bother me at all. I kept the box just in case but its looking good so far. This morning I taxied over to Best Buy and exchanged the SD card. Left my hotel room key in the hotel room and couldn’t remember the name of it so I walked back. Glad it was only a mile (and a $2 cab ride).

The house I’m staying in is very luxurious. It’s not just one house; it’s kind of like a mini compound because there are 2 separate houses sharing the same fenced-in property. The private 3 car underground garage and only entrance, is protected by a wrought iron gate so my bike should be safe and sound outside. I stuck the rain cover on it and it’s out of sight from the street. The mom, Grace and her 2 sons and daughter live here. The daughter lives in the 2nd house. Both places are used to house people going to the Spanish school. The room is the one complaint I have. The bed is short and isn’t up against a wall at the head or foot so parts of me are going to be hanging off the end. The worst part is that it sits on the 2nd floor right over a fairly busy street and the window lets a lot of noise through. There’s either bar or a party a couple doors down too. I can almost see having to move to another place if sleep becomes an issue.

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