06/16 I hate this road oh so very much. Today was a perfect blend of all the things I dislike the most: horrible road surface, steady traffic and a strong cross-wind. I asked my new friend Viven if it’s always this windy here and she confirmed it. She also said it can go from sunny one day to a hurricane the next which makes me wonder what kind of warning system they have in place here. There is a hurricane shelter in town and I think the building was rating to a cat 3 but I wonder how well word gets out if one is coming.

Crooked Tree Village is very sparse in services but the people are incredibly friendly. Viven, who I mentioned above, works here at the motel. I happened to run into her on my afternoon hike and we had a nice chat. She also has a wicked arm. There are fruit trees all over the place and she asked if I wanted a mango. Right above our heads about 15 feet up was a ripe one so she threw a stick up and knocked it down for me. I ate it back at the motel and boy was it good.

Cashews are a big thing here so I bought a bag of fresh ones and chowed down on those. Lunch was at a place called Carrie’s Kitchen which was hard to find because the signs are almost non-existent. I’ve had to ask if I’m going the right way more in the last few days than at any other time on my trip. Ended up having rice and beans with some chicken which seems to be the standard menu item in these parts. Also met the smartest kid while I was walking back here. He couldn’t have been more than 6 but he knew the names of every bird we saw. It’s so nice being able to talk to 90% of the people I meet. Except for one guy who spoke Creole, everyone else has spoken almost perfect English.

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06/15 First whole day of riding in Belize and I’m not a fan. The Northern Highway as it’s called has no shoulder, no lane markings of any kind (including a center yellow line) and there are big, old rumbling sugar cane trucks all over the place. No one ran me over and that’s all that matters I guess. The wind was kicking my butt too. It was blowing hard from the east which pushes me right into the broken asphalt that marks the side of the road. Fortunately I have mad riding skills and avoided running off the road.

Other than a lot of sugar cane fields there’s not too much in the way of scenery. I miss hills. On a positive note the people here are extremely friendly. I’ve had more fist-bumps from strangers on the street then I ever have. And the food… it is sooooo good. Had this garlic pepper shrimp tonight that was awesome. Most of the restaurants are air conditioned which is great because then I don’t have to chase nasty flies away from my dinner. So other than the stinking road and that things are a bit more expensive I like it here.

Orange Walk Town is pretty neat. It seemed from reading different web sites that it would be really touristy but its not that way at all. I even found a place (Baba’s) that changes Mexican pesos. There’s a decent-sized river that runs through town that you can travel up to see the ruins at Lamanai (used to be huge Mayan city). I’m going to skip it because staying an extra day for the US $40 tour plus the cost of the motel (US $35) is way too much.

I sure miss having detailed GPS maps like I did for Mexico. I’m using the Garmin WorldMap v4 and it only has major highways on it. That didn’t help when it took me 15 minutes to find my way out of Corozal this morning.

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Weather in Chetumal, Q. Roo when posted:

Temperature: 30 °C, Humidity: 70%, Wind Speed: 6km/hr, Cloud Cover: broken clouds

06/03 Took a bus over to Uxmal today. That turned out to be a bit complicated because the motel is on the edge of town so there’s no bus stop or taxi station. I walked into town and finally found a taxi but it was a van and I got the impression that he didn’t want to drive out to the ruins with just me as a passenger. So I headed back to the motel, found out when the next bus would be driving by and flagged it down from the side of the road.

The entry fee to get into the ruins was a bit steep. It was something like $140 pesos which is way more than any other site I’ve visited. It was deathly hot and the tourists, most of which were foreigners, shuffled from one shady spot to the next. I did meet 3 American teachers and we chatted for a bit. They said I should come back for fireworks tonight but I’ll skip that–it was hard enough getting there the first time.

There were lots of cool non-building things to see here. In most of the cave-like rooms accessible to the outside, dozens of tiny birds would fly around like crazy whenever someone walked in. I just stood there kind of like Batman while they flew around my head. Also saw lots of iguanas wandering around. Up in the rafters in one building were 3 birds with the neatest tail feathers (pic below).

Sleep was next to impossible last night so I’m going to be really tired come tomorrow. It’s just way too hot and the ceiling fan is worthless. The wind also died down so there’s not even a breeze.

03/23 Took off this morning with Pete riding in front to block the wind for me. Actually the wind wasn’t too bad but it was very hot. We rode on the toll road which worked out perfectly. This is the 1st time since riding with the German girl back in Florida that I rode with someone else for the entire day. Having some company was a nice change. It is a little harder to see things in front of you I found out. Toward the end of the day Pete had us on this epic detour (:)) down a road that’s seen better days. I ended up running into a pothole that caused my front pannier to pop off. Something on it snagged my rear tire on the way by and sheared the value stem right off. Kind of remarkable if you look at the odds of that happening. Of course the air inside went with it so we were delayed a bit while I popped a new tube in.

Nothing much in the way of scenery. The mountains were OK but I like trees on them and these are pretty bare. Tomorrow will be different. There are boat tours that run you up the Rio Grijalva, Mexico’s 2nd largest river so you can see the Canon del Sumidero. It’s an 18 mile long fault with canyon walls that reach heights up to 3,280 feet. The tour is about 6 hours so we’ll hang out here for another night.

US $7.94 for the el cheapo room at the motel we’re staying at. It’s the worst room I’ve ever stayed in though. Funny how that happens. I guess I can just say the worst thing about it to put things in perspective. There’s a used condom on the floor by the bathroom. The strange part is the fact that there were no curtains on the front window and it faces right out into the street. I hope I wasn’t expected to put on some kind of performance tonight because I’m too tired. I’m definitely using my sleeping bag tonight. Pete’s in the next room so I can yell over if any bugs try to devour me–one section of the adjoining wall doesn’t quite make it up to the ceiling. I’d change motels but the timing of the tour kind of screws things up a little. It’s the Hotel Posada de Sonia if anyone wants to visit.

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03/17 The big hill ended up being bigger than I thought. The weather was favorable which helped. Cloudy with a nice cool breeze makes for good climbing weather. The ride back down was fun but the scenery wasn’t quite as nice as it was for the last couple days. Had 2 dogs run after me but a dirty look scared them off. I think my dog Dazzer is broken. I don’t even try to use it any more.

Tomorrow might be a short day because the Pacific Ocean is just a quick 30 miles away and I might not get to see it again for a long time. The city of Salina Cruz is a little out of the way but there might be a side road that gets me back onto the highway without having to ride back up the same way.

Saw K/M having lunch at the side of the road which was nice because they left an hour before I did so I didn’t think I’d see them all day. We met up again in town and looked for a place to stay. There’s a motel but we wanted to see if camping at the police station was possible. It was but the places available to pitch the tent were kind of exposed for my taste and the wind is brutal so I rode over to the motel and got a room. K/M were going to stay but the wind drove them over here too. It was so strong I saw it blow the tin roof off a shack. We had to ride into it for a little but luckily we were in town before it got too bad. There’s a big lake at the edge of town and I rode over to check it out but it doesn’t look like any of the land along it is developed. My dreams of staying in a lakeside cabin in Mexico might have to wait.

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